Thanks for the assistance Mike - funny how much easier things are when one reads the instructions ;-)

I am replacing 2 windows on my F30 NE built 1972.The cause of the problem is the original windows had a hidden joining section made of brass. Over the years other windows have been replaced and I have still 4 to do.AnyNew build check the windows and save a load grief and cash.

I had the same problem when I got my first Fisher a F30 the wheelhouse window in particular were rotten, as you say a brass block used to join two pieces of aluminium frame hidden beneath a piece of damp canvas lining. I think a chemist would think I was describing a battery.
I tackled Northshore about this ( mine was a Northshore built boat ) and they said that was the equipment they were supplied with to build the boats, remember at that time they were building for Fairways.
I spoke to some one who had a Pennington built F30 of the same age ( 1973 ) and they said they didn't have any trouble at all. Obviously their window frames has been manufactured by someone who remembered their chemistry lessons.
I have a Fairways F 37 ( 1978 ) and the problem is not present in the window frames, so I imagine they had sorted it by then.
Regards,
Terry

I had the same problem when I got my first Fisher a F30 the wheelhouse window in particular were rotten, as you say a brass block used to join two pieces of aluminium frame hidden beneath a piece of damp canvas lining. I think a chemist would think I was describing a battery.
I tackled Northshore about this ( mine was a Northshore built boat ) and they said that was the equipment they were supplied with to build the boats, remember at that time they were building for Fairways.
I spoke to some one who had a Pennington built F30 of the same age ( 1973 ) and they said they didn't have any trouble at all. Obviously their window frames has been manufactured by someone who remembered their chemistry lessons.
I have a Fairways F 37 ( 1978 ) and the problem is not present in the window frames, so I imagine they had sorted it by then.
Regards,
Terry

I have a fisher freeward 30 from 1978 and I have the same problem with the windows. Where could I buy the brass block or do I have to buy the complete window? Is it possible to buy somewhere spare parts for my fisher 30?

The last thing you want is to replace the brass strips, they are what is causing the corrosion!
Remove one of the brass blocks and take it to an engineer, ask him to make you some duplicates in stainless steel and tap a thread in ready for the screws.
Regards,
Terry

Hi

As a new owner of Fisher 30 I should like to ask, what might be the best place in a boat to install a waiste water tank for toilet? Now there is old Lavac zenith toilet, which works fine.

Regards Veli Kaijomaa, Finland, Joensuu

I am thinking of buying a Fisher 46 variant custom built with a steel hull. (You can read the specifications for it here: http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_full_detail.jsp?slim=broker&boat_id=1075675&ybw=&hosturl=emeraldyachtship&&ywo=emeraldyachtship&&units=Feet&access=Public&listing_id=15064&url=&hosturl=emeraldyachtship&&ywo=emeraldyachtship& or navigate to http://www.emeraldyachtship.com/ and look at the "Custom 46' Motorsailer" in the "Yachts for Sale" section.)

This boat was built in 1982, weighs approximately 60,000 lbs. and has a single headsail, unlike many of the other Fisher 46's I have read about.

My question is, how will this boat perform under sail? How close to the wind is it likely to point? What speed will it likely attain with, say, winds of 15 knots?

Any answers and advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Matt Guerreiro

Dear Matt – the Fisher range are motor-sailers and in my 5 year experience of F46-14 Blue Merlin, having sailed >3000 miles, we seldom get anywhere without the engine participating at around 800-900 revs (Ford Sabre 120 hp). We tend to cruise at 6.5-7 knots. We are fortunate in having the taller rig/bowsprit cutter arrangement which will, in winds of 18-20 knots help to push our 26+ tons along. Windward sailing without the engine is possible but sluggish and at 40 or so degrees off the wind. Fishers were never meant to be ocean greyhounds but they are incredibly seaworthy boats in poor and windy weather – I would not swap here for anything. If you fancy a trial sail – we are in Sicilian waters. Today, for instance, off the s coast of sicily, in 15 knots, 40 degrees off the bow - the sails added about 1.25 knots to 6 knots under engine.
One day I hope to see how she behaves in the trade-winds crossing the Atlantic, but I expect I will be carrying several extra barrels of diesel to augment her 650nm range!
Alan and Ann Murray

Dear Alan and Ann:

Thanks for your input. The Fishers do seem to be great boats. If I do go ahead with this purchase, I may revert to you for advice on re-rigging to tap into additional wind power.

Happy sailing in Sicily! I am very jealous, looking out my window here in Manhattan.

Matt Guerreiro

With you in mind, I had an opportunity today to get everything in very tight in 22 knots of wind (hoping that the rig stays up) - achieved 6.3 knots over a period of an hour, at 45 degrees to wind and no engine. I had quite forgotten the capability of the old girl!
Alan, Blue Merlin

Dear Fisher owners,

I am looking for a "Fisher 46" to buy, If any one knows one for sale... Would he be so kind to help me and my wife realise our dream..

Thank you very much..

Hi Oliver,

It just so happens that there is this F46 on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Very-Rare-Fisher-46-Ketch-Motorsailor-Sailboat_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQ
hashZitem45edb43c44QQitemZ300340755524QQptZSailboats


It looks as though it needs some updating for a world trip....there seems to be very little navigation equipment !

Hope it helps your search !

Best Andy Prinz F34

I own a fisher 25 and I would like to receive some advise regarding the following:

-What is more practical, wind or solar power as a source of batteries maintenance ? The boat is moored in Cadiz ,Spain
and there is plenty of Sun and Wind.I would appreciate information with regards to the of position turbine and/or solar cells.
-Outboard engine,recommended model, power,where to position and type of engine bracket
( I saw an article in FOA which coverd this matter,but was for a Fisher 34 stern
and 25 different).Thank you in advance for any information in the above matter. Antonio

Hi Fisher M8s

Just wanted to blog to you all and say thank you again for sponsoring Gemma and I when we ran 5k charity run in aid of RNLI recently Tony has included a note and pictures in then newsletter but updated total paid over to RNLI is £210 :-)

Thanks Luv Carolx

Hello All!
Well I just got my first newsletter in the mail yesterday and I was happy to read about everybodies summer, even though it was a tad wet. My father and I are thinking about getting a fisher. Its not a boat built by Northshore, but a privately built boat, by a friend of mine. He bought the hull took it from there. It is a wood/epoxy resin hull. It is modelled after the fisher 37 and is a lovely boat. I had have had alot of questions about fishers these past weeks and have been trying to read as much as I can. Originally we were thinking about a strictly sailing yacht, but after thinking about it, we are from Northern Ireland, and it can get cold and miserable here, the sun not always present. We thought maybe a Fisher could be the ticket for us. With the comfort of the wheelhouse and the engine to take us home if we get in trouble, or just want to get somewhere, it just seemed a more comfortable way to enjoy the Irish Sea and beyond. What do you all think? How do they sail? Do you always need the engine? Or will she sail nicely without it? She is a 37 with about 13.5 tonn weight. A lovely heavy boat and very nicely built. She has no bow sprit, but is rigged with 1 head sail, 1 stay sail, the main, and mizzen. The wheel house has side doors instead of a back door. Do you have any advice for me and Derek, my papa? We have been looking for a boat now for a year mostly as a hobbie, but now we are thinking more seriously about this one, she is a sweet machine. Any help you might have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Brendan

Hi Brendan,
Good to hear from a prospective Fisher owner. Fishers are about comfortable cruising. They aren't what you want if your sailing requires a lot of tacking at close wind angles. If however you want to sail in comfort in the open sea and are happy with 45 degrees to the wind being close hauled, 50 degrees is so much better, then they are just the job.
You say you have had a look at the Newsletter, so you will see I made the passage from Gigha to Larne a passage of 52 miles under sail in something like seven and a half hours in winds from force 3 to force 6 and a favourable tide. It doesn't get much better than that. The autopilot did the work for most of the time. the angle of heel was about 10 degrees and we watched the sea, read books , and enjoyed lunch. What more do you want? Oh and if it gets cold put the heater on!
Regards,
Terry

Hi,

First time trying to use this blog thing so here goes. We're taking up the diamond pattern cork material from the deck of our Catfisher.
Using a hot air gun and a Bosch electric scraper it is far easier than imagined. However as always, lift the rug and what do you find? On the starboard side adjacent to the start of the wheelhouse there has always been a bulge which flattened out if you walked on it. We always assumed there was an air bubble under the treadmaster or whatever the cork stuff is called. Having removed the cork the bubble is still there. About 12 inches long by approx 3 inches. The surface is very pliable suggesting that the material is not very thick. Could it be that the gelcoat and perhaps 1 layer of GRP has delaminated from the rest of the deck thickness. My idea would be to cut along the length of the bubble to allow it to collapse and then slosh thickened epoxy underneath and stick it back down to the remaining deck laminate. Has anyone seen this before and if so should I panic or just repair it.

Thanks
Lloyd

We've posted your question, a very good question, to the FOG website in Canada so let's see what answers emerge.

Loren and Sandra Acker
SeaWeed, Fisher Northeaster '30

A good resource for this type of repair appears to be the Rot Doctor <http://www.rotdoctor.com/>. I've been following someone's else's deck delamination repair on another list and they say that Rot Doctor is very responsive to inquiries and the site is a good resource for info.
Ken G. Brown

What a great resource. Thank you. I'll post this on the FOG site as well.

Loren

I've just followed the link and obvious first thought was that we have a GRP boat but then common sense dawned and of course we all have loads of wood in our Fishers. Very good site. I've read about this penetrating epoxy before on Wooden Boat Forum. Very popular in the States but not come across it very much over here. We found a small wet patch at the bottom of a door frame today and following it back suggests a stanchion base allowing water to run down inside the hull. Headlining will have to come out to look at fasteners etc before rebedding. Thanks for links, it's good to be back in the fold. I've missed everyone while concentrating on my business instead of Succession.
lloyd

Lloyd . How is the work going ?

Alastair

The decks have been stripped of the non slip diamond pattern together with the epoxy adhesive. They've been photographed for posterity and we're waiting for some warmer and dryer weather before we tackle two soft patches, one either side of the wheelhouse. Once they're sorted we can roll on the non slip liquid covering. We've decided to apply the coating even where deck fittings have been removed but to leave it smooth beneath them. It looks smart on our test piece and maintains the continuity of surface. The Kiwigrip will make a massive difference to the safety on deck and to the eye. As soon as the weather improves and the work is complete I'll post some before and after pictures.
Lloyd - Catfisher Succession.

any chance of looking at some of those pictures

Alastair

Lloyd ,

Just looked at the Kiwi grip site . Understand it can be applied over existing material . I know you had to dig down to fix the local delamination problem but on areas where there was no delamination did you paint over the tread master . In not can it be done ??

Also how much does that stuff cost per sq metre

Alastair

What do you all think about bow thrusters? Are they cheating? Do you recommned them? Or are they a waist of time? Are they expensive and what type would you recommend? If you had a fisher 37 would you recommend them? Are they difficult to install? I would guess that alot of purests don;t like them... but do you guys think that there is a place for them? What size would be appropriate for a fisher 37 (wood hull, 13 tonn weight) Anyways.... any help you have would be most appreciated. thanks.

Brendan

Yes. Essential on a long keeled yacht like a Fisher that can be difficult to manouvre in a tight space. I have one on my Fisher 25 and would not be without it. My previous boat was a Coaster 33, very similar shape and characteristics to the Fishers. My first move when I bought it was to fit a bow thruster.
When in Calais I had the mast taken out in order to go into the canals, I had to back quite a way back along a narrow waterway from the crane and the only way I could do it was by using the bow thruster [steering by the bow, as it were].
I cannot give advice on cost or type, but it will save on gel coat repairs [yours and others!].

A place for bowthrusters? Most definitely, and my advice would be somewhere near the bow!.....No, they're quite definitely not cheating. It's the skipper's responsibility to handle his boat in a safe and controlled manner, especially in the vicinity of other craft, using any and all methods available. We've all had those embarassing moments when our craft (small, medium or large) has taken over control, aided and abetted by currents, wind, eddies, the sudden approach of another vessel. Best prevented, say I, and if a bowthruster helps manoeverability, then you would be daft not to have one. I had mine installed professionally, and I'm not sure I'd advise a DIY approach unless your fibre-glassing technique is 100% trustworthy. It involves two rather large holes in your hull, and the sea will surely find a way in if the job hasn't been done properly. As to size, well, take the professional's advice, based in displacement rather than length. On my F34 there is a lot of solidified ballast in the bow and the thruster tunnel is perhaps not quite as deep in the water as is ideal - the F37 may be the same. As to power - some say run gert great leads from the main battery, while others advise a separate battery in the bows. Enjoy your new-found manoeverability!

If you keep your boat in a Marina and use Marinas when cruising I would think bowthrusters are almost essential.
If you keep your boat on a swinging mooring and use anchorages then you won't miss one.
I am not sure what problems you might have installing one in a wood hull ( planked ). The only bowthrusters I have seen have been in GRP or Steel vessels

Hello all,
We are about to purchase a fisher 37 stlye trawler sailor. She is not a fisher, but built with the style and the heart of the fisher in mind. She is a wood hull, with side doors on the wheel house. What i was wondering is, if we cna still be considered members of the FOG, with a fisher that is not actually a fisher. Or would we have to start our own club?? :( I am only an accociate member but was hoping to become a full member. So what do you all think? She is a lovley example of a motor sailor. Oroka on oak, with Mahogany decks. Dunegal Green and white with cream Sails. Anyways, what do you all think? can we still come out to play with you guys? Cheers all. The season is not far away, and this will be our first as owners!!!!

I would have no objection but then, I have only been a member myself for two years and have no real standing.

Francis

We are in the process of getting the boat ready for hand-over. She has been laid up for a few years and has just been sitting there with a cover over her. The owner/builder is giving her an over haul and a complete re-painting. We were hoping to maybe come to one of the rallies this summer and sail with you guys. Which would be the best one to come too? I am getting pretty excited. Is there anything you recommend I do before the boat gets turned over to us? We have agreed on a sea trial before we make the final deal. Is there anything else I should insist on? I have had a survey done, and nothing but a bit of small maintainance work was found. Anyways. I hope to hear from you all. take care.

Hi Brendan,
All you can do is go round and pull on every bit of string to make sure it all runs free. Same goes for the anchor and chain, make sure the windlass works. Turn a hosepipe on your windows and see if they leak! Check on seacocks to make sure they turn freely, it is easier to sort them while on dry land. Same goes for sheet winches.
Ask and check the state of the batteries, are they new or old. If they are not new how well do they hold a charge, try a drop tester
on them if in doubt.
With you based in N. Ireland it is Sod's law that this year I won't be organising a Scottish Rally because I am putting one on in the West Country. I don't know how far you will want to be travelling during your first season with the boat but God willing I shall be putting one together in Scotland next season probably in the June for a few days.
Regards,
Terry

Terry,
Thanks so much for the feedback, yes its always the way it goes.... but I think next year will be just as good as this year, we'll be keen either way. I think our first trip will be to the Ilse of Mann and then onward and upward to Scotland. I was only today stripping and sanding back the rudder and priming it up for a good painting. It was a great day, think I might even have a bit of sun burn on my face hehe. Have you ever heard of a singer named Stan Rogers? Canadian bloke, folk singer, sings some solid maritime tunes... seems to go well with primping the old girl for the sea. Thanks for the tips and advice... I will keep you posted and let you know how it all unfolds. Cheers mate.

I would really like to know if anyone here is familiar with the Kiel canal and then the Standing Mast Route through Holland, then across to the UK. I know there is a Dutch Guide to the SMR which I shall buy but I was really looking for some wise tips from people who have been there, done that ! Best Andy N

Kiel canal. Pretty strightforward, but do not get too close to the edge if being passed by a big ship. Happened to me in the early morning. I was on the loo when we came to a crunching stop at an angle! Turned out that the crew had her on autohelm and when the big ship's bow wave passed us it turned our bow towards the ship. The autohelm corrected madly and was just taking effect when the stern wave passed us and turned us towards the bank. The inevitable happened.

As for Holland. there are two routes, either up to Schipol and take the midnight convoy through Amsterdam [I have not done this, I'm told that you have to be aware of plastic in the water with the danger of it getting into the engine water intake. Goes North at about 0200]. The alternative is via Haarlem. The probelm here is that there are railway bridges at Gouda, this only opens three times a day but there are moorings either side.
A second one further North whose name I forget with limited opening, There is a convoy system through Haarlem, though you can stop in the middle of the city and then resume with the next convoy, and just North of Haarlem is a good yachtclub with marina. North again is another railway bridge with limited opening, after that it is the Nord See canal and into Amsterdam.
I have done this route several times and enjoyed it both ways.

Francis ...thank you for the ideas on this one...much appreciated. Please could you say exactly which one was your favourite route and the one you have done several times ?
Best Andy

Dear Andy,

Sorry, silly me, of course if you are in the Baltic you don't want to know about ways North in Holland!
Going towards Keil, Rendsburg makes a useful stopping place. Large town, railway connections and good shopping.
I started back through the Kiel canal, but rather less than half way along it is a lock on your starboard side which leads into the Eider river. The toll is paid at Keil. I went along the Eider, you need much more time for this than just the Keil canal, but it is much more fun. Friederickstadt is an interesting town along the way. You eventually get out through a lock into the sea, or rather a maze of creeks in the flat sands, but going out is easy to find, I think that finding your way in might be a differnt matter.
From there I Heligoland [always had a romantic desire to see it] where I was the 11th boat out on the shortest raft. There appeared to be an abundance of mackerel in the sea around Heligoland.
Thence to Borkum. On the way the sea suddenly became an orange colour and the waves were damped. I got some up in a bucket and found that the sea was full of fish eggs!
Borkum's marina was empty when I went out, but almost full on return in August. I think that August was probably why Heligoland was so full. From there to get into the canal system at Lauersoog. Going across the Waddensee it is essential to have an up to date chart. you start from Borkum at bottom of tide, follow the channel until you stick, wait 15 minutes for more tide and then repeat the exercise until you reach the watershed and then don't hang about.
You can enter at Delfzjl if you just do the Keil canal and exit at Brunsbuttle, I have not done this, and understand that the canal is very plain in this section.
From Lauersoog I went to Dokkum, Leeuwarden, Sneek and eventually to Lemmer and from there into the Ejselmeer. You can go from Sneek to Stavoren and get into the Ejselmeer there. Alternatively you can get out of the canals again at Harlingen and into the Ejeslmeer at Kornwarderzand lock. This is a shallowish channel of about 10 miles [from memory].
Incidentally, when we got stuck at the edge of Keil canal near Brunsbuttle, we were pulled off by one of the car ferries that happened to have its crossing a couple of hundred yards ahead of where we stuck. It had a full load of cars but deviated from its route, chucked us a line, pulled us off and then continued its trip across the canal. It had obviously seen it all before!
I hope that you have a vey good trip. I envy you. Best wishes Francis

Dear Andy,
I cannot add much to what Francis wrote, the information I add is in Dutch.
You can find a lot of information about the Staande Mast Route on http://www.staandemast.nl/ with all the details about bridges.
I also invite you to visit the story about our trip in 2007 to Scandinavia http://fisherbuoy.waarbenjij.nu
Eider to sea depends on good wheather; do not go there with strong west winds. From Eider to Helgoland is a short trip. From Helgoland or Brunsbuttel you can go to Norderney and Borkum. From there you can enter The Netherlands depending on wheater conditions via Delfzijl, Lauwersoog, Vlieland/Terschelling. Via Haarlem is with daylight and via Amsterdam is during the night. Personal I prefer Haarlem. The other possibility is over sea to Texel or Den Helder, IJmuiden, Scheveningen, all daytrips.
Take the time and enjoy the trip!
Derk

Hi Derk,
Thank you all very useful ! I am considering exiting the canal system at Harlingen to cross the Waddenzee to Den Helder then re-entering the North Holland canal down to Haarlem avoiding Amsterdam altogether...have you tried this ?
Best
Andy N

Hi Andy, Have done some research and probably it is possible to take the North Holland canal. Max depth is 1.80 m. I have never done this and will never do this, because the number of bridges with limited opening times. This alternative route is mentioned in the brochure http://www.rws.nl/rws/scheepvaart/Staande%20Mast%20Route%202008.pdf.
When are you planning this trip?
Personally if I take the inland canals I would go via Lemmer and IJsselmeer. If you want to avoide Amstrerdam by night, you go via Amsterdam, direction IJmuiden and then before IJmuiden direction Haarlem. We are moored close to Haarlem, depending on your schedule and our holidays you are very welcome to share your Dutch waterways experiences! Regards, Derk

Hi Derk
I will take your advice as you are on the ground ! I would very much like to take up your kind offer and I will send my email to you through the owners club directly to make contact.
Kind regards
Andrew Nebbett

Hi,

I'm looking for some advice .My wife and I are looking to purchase a F30 as our first boat. Can anyone give us a rough guide as to what we should pay?

Ian A

There is no definitive price for any boat as age & condition will lead to a huge difference in value. I know that doesn't really answer your question but what I have learned recently is that even fairly cheeky offers are being accepted so that the advertised price should be taken as a starting point only. This worked for us when we recently bought a Crabber 24 for a price which made even my financial controller smile but is working against us as we prepare our Catfisher 28 for sale. We keep our Catfisher in a local marina for whom I also work as an I.T. consultant plus our mooring is next to one of the brokerage staff boats. We therefore get the latest news on sale prices as we have a very keen vested interest. The credit squeeze has reached boat sales. We've heard of boats priced at £14k selling for £9k, you do the maths. If you check the web you will find 30's advertised at £25k for a 72 or £48k for a 79 model. If it's your first boat then a survey from a surveyor you trust and preferably recommended by someone else you trust plus a careful examination by yourself, wife, partner before the survey is also a good idea as surveyors have been known to miss things. Try to put away the rose tinted spectacles and look critically at everything.Get the seller or broker to show you things actually working, the surveyor won't necessarily run the engine, the outboard, check the dinghy inflates and that it's oars aren't rotten beneath the new paint. If there is an existing survey your insurance company may not need another immediately but bear in mind that when they do they will ask for things such as gas safety certificates and that just about everything the survey finds fault with is attended to in a reasonable time span and the completion of the work notified to them. Also bear in mind that when you buy a boat with the idea that you're not bad at DIY around the home therefore I can fix this but that on the boat, the bit that needs fixing will be (a) rusted solid (b) was put in before the deck moulding and is now only accessible by a six year old (c) Was made to Imperial sizes and is now only available in Metric (d) Will require a second mortgage to replace at today's prices and (e) Was working just fine when the last owner used it.
Boats in general and Fishers in particular are great fun and a welcome escape from just about everything but they will tax your patience, your pocket, your sanity and your marriage vows. You might want to try and meet up with some local Fisher owners first and even bribe one of them (beer usually works) to join you on visits to likely purchases. Good luck with your search and remember that the FOA Chatroom is a fantastic resource.
LLoyd - Succession.

Good advice from Lloyd, any of the early F30's with salt water cooled Volvo MD3B engines are probably in need of replacing. Also that engine had a nasty habbit of bending pushrods! My 1974 boat needed a new engine in 94 and back then is cost about £6000 so look for a boat with a good engine. I know they sail well but if you are going to cruise a bit you will use the engine quite a lot.
Regards,
Terry

I am moderately new to the Fisher Owners Club and have only recently bought an F34 after 2 years of searching. I looked at cheap ones and moderately priced ones...but it seemed to me to be better to buy a really clean, loved example with less to spend straight away, unless you are a confident engineer and enthusiast (with lots of spare time). To have work done by a yard is very expensive and can soon make a cheap purchase price for an unloved example start to look painfully expensive !

I am looking for a Fairways marine letterhead or invoice, can anyone help as Iam doing a research on that company!

I have the original "Owners Manual" for the Fisher 25 which has the Fairways Marine logo on the cover. Would that be of any help?

Francis Rutter.

Thanks for the offer, I also have a brochure showing the co. logo.

Fisher 37 with propshaft stuffing box. In order to get access to the stern tube stuffing box is it necessary to cut through the cockpit floor or is there an other way!

On mine you look in the engine space and there it is at the back of the bilge sump about three foot back from the gearbox!
regards,
Terry

Yes Terry I see it ok but how do you get in to re-stuff it. that really was my question.
Regards
Fergie

Fergie,
You get down in the engine space and crawl in there on your hands and knees. I suggest having a "gofor" handy to pass things down to you so you don't have to keep crawling in and out. They can also alert the emergency services when you get stuck.
You also have to get down there to release the bolts/nuts if you want to change the cutless bearing.
I do suggest you take something soft to kneel on getting in there, surprising how much space when you have made it past the first bulkhead!
Regards,
Terry

Terry, Sorry I ommitted to tell you that between the engine and the end if the propshaft is a 350ltr. diesel tank totally blocking any access from the engine room. I now think the only way to access the cutless bearing is to cut a hole on the cockpit floor. I tried to crawl down through the port aft locker recently and got stuck and if it hadn't been for a friend passing I wouldn't be blogging now.

Sorry, never thought of that. My boat has twin tanks either side under the settee and the pilot berth.
Sounds as though you will need a flush inspection hatch in the cockpit floor. Do you have space between the back of the tank and the gland or is the gland below the tank?
Terry

Yes there is and your right, it looks if thats what i'll have to do. I have just sailed my boat from Turkey to Portugal 2000mls took 2 months and motored every inch. back home is Scotland but going back out on Saturday for the winter, its much to cold and wet here!
Regards
Fergie

Sounds familiar, I brought Cigano from Alicante to N. Wales when I bought her. 2000 miles of motoring.
I did have a following wind across Biscay so that was a very pleasant motorsail but the wind was never strong enough to use sail alone.
Just as well the day after we got to Belle Isle the wind blew force 9 minimum for the next ten days.
I think Portugal for the winter is a very good idea. The wild geese are here flying over my house each day in much larger numbers and much earlier than I have seen in forty years!
Regards,
Terry

Before you cut a hole in the cockpit floor make sure that you will be able to reach the gland and be able to work on it?

Peter Clements

Yes I agree I have located the Sterngland using mirrows and once I have decided it will be a small hole at first, however the final size of hole will be decided on reach and the size of the sealed hatch availability.
Thanks for your advice.

Fergie Anderson

No chance of getting an agile 12 year old in there?
Regards,
Terry

hallo, does anyone knows cruising speeds of a catfisher 28, engine - sail - engine+sails ?
thank you.

Hi,

Succession manages six knots or thereabouts with engine only and about another 1/2 knot if a decent wind with engine and sails but 9 knots whilst being towed by the Walton lifeboat. Sail only rather depends on the wind strength but 4 knots with a decent breeze. Not very technical i'm afraid and then I wouldn't swear to the accuracy of our log. You'd do better with the boat test from Practical Boat Owner which I think has the official figures.
LLoyd - Succession - Tollesbury.

thank you very much for your reply.
can you also please tell me if you think that a catfisher is suitable for the aegian seas?

I've never sailed the Med myself but I think you'll find several other Catfisher owners have sailed the area and from the pics I've seen the main addition being aircon of some form.
Good luck,

Lloyd

Well my catfisher is wintering South of Athens just now having sailed there from the Ionian through the windy Gulf of Corinth and the Corinth Canal . Currently planning to venture further into the Aegean in 2009 So I will let you know in 9 months time . Don't suppose it will be any different from North Sardinia or the Aoelan Islands and the Messina Straight where I made only one knot against a head wind of nearly 30 knots .In the eastern Peleponnese gusts of 40 knot shave been reported at Momevasia and also at Cape Sounion in the Saronic near However the the Meltemi can blow for days in the Cyclades during the hot months of July and August restricting one to port or to safe anchorage for some time . Fortunately there are short distances between the islands and it is less windy in May , June and September etc For your information there is a catfisher in Cyprus so it must have got there safely

thanks for your reply.
what speeds have you been traveling?
did you have any problems because of the waves?

Well Going down the Gulf of Corinth from the new bridge at Rion to Corinth with a 25 knot wind on the tail , motor sailing with all sails up and the cruising chute flying we made over 7 knots . Of course on a catamaran we were able to balance our gin and tonics on the wheelhouse roof without spilling anything at the same time . We were more worried about the possibility of water spouts and thunderstorms which are reported common at the Corinth end . From Levkas in the Ionian through the Corinth Canal we did over 300 miles. As far as waves are concerned a couple of years ago we had 4 m waves at the boot of Italy near the oilrigs to the east of Crotone on the Ionian Sea . These crashing on the roof of the wheel house sounded like some one dropping a load of bricks . More noisy than damaging . Only problem was that we left some moblie phones on the window ledge and a wave came in through a slightly open window and put them out of action .

In a cat you don't sail straight into the waves you sail at an angle because with a solid bridge deck it slaps onto the oncoming waves and causes the whole boat to vibrate. Quite good for mixing cocktails or for a bit of hanky panky but rather boring for 5 hours or more . So sail at 45 degrees or so . If you ski its like a traverse . By the way make sure you have no sediment in your fuel tank . Because it is long and low lying in the bilges on the port hull even with baffles it stirs the muck up in the fuel tank sump and blocks the fuel outlet pipe intermittantly causing the engine to cough and splutter . By the way if you do like excitement on the move and a bit of what you fancy at the same time make sure you have the auto pilot on

Hope this helps

Appreciate the bit about 45 degrees to the waves, wish we'd done that coming out of Dover harbour into a roughish sea. Stirred up the sediment of years (under previous ownership) and shut down the engine once the filter clogged. RNLI like tomato ketchup with their sausage and bacon sarnies and were their legendary helpfulness, speed and courtesy. They also ate all of my ginger cake. Tank out once safely in home port, steam cleaned, inspection hatches fitted, new fuel plus treatment chemical although not sure that makes any difference. New fuel hoses, filters etc. Once bitten etc. Does sailing at an angle help with slamming in a confused sea?
Thanks
Lloyd - Succession - Tollesbury.

Got the tip about sailing at an angle to the waves from a nice Swiss/ Dutch couple who had a Prout Cat named Fry . met them in Sardinia . They used to sail across to from Sardinia in February to Fiumicino near Pisa on the mainland and back regardless of weather . The only draw back however is at an angle to the waves with high waves they tend to break on the sides so it becomes a balance between what one is able to tolerate either bow thumping or side breaking and crashing .

In a confused sea with wind over tide /current then it is a different matter because the waves come at you from all directions most of them reflected several times from shore and other waves etc . In these circumstances it is quite uncomfortable . I like it to a soup plate rocking and rolling on all axes including an up and down component as well . Shaken and Stirred and Tossed . not the time to be writing up the log .

My experience with life boats - the Mainland Italian one was on a flat windless sea when my engine totally failed in the Messina Straight . Very efficient but I bet your life boat did not have a gun at the bow

No gun. Walton lifeboat arrived at full speed and executed a high speed turn stopping dead alongside and about 2 foot off our port side. Their engineer came across with his tool kit and immediately started work on our OM636. Two more lifeboat crew rigged up a towing bridle and complimented the Catfisher's 3 heavy duty anchor/mooring cleats on the bow. Said it made a nice change from some of the flimsy fittings they see on more modern boats. Towed us from middle of the Thames estuary to Brightlingsea at approx 9 knots. On arrival in Brightlingsea they moored our boat for us, with me taking notes on how quick and efficiently they did it and then had a guided tour of the lifeboat as rigged for what was now night running. I don't think the bridge of the Starship Enterprise could have been any more impressive. The harbourmaster ferried us ashore but the taxi arrived before we could get to the pub. The lifeboat sped off into the night with shouted thank you's and an appreciation of the RNLI that still brings a tear to my eye. If any of you reading these posts has ever hesitated to put a hand to pocket on lifeboat day then don't. No government money and mainly crewed by volunteers, modern day heroes, every one.

Yes, I can confirm Catfisher 'Lucy of Lune' is now ashore in Larnaca Marina; so there are now two Catfishers there! I had been in touch with one of the joint owners by letter in the past, transmitting email exchanges between Catfisher owners because he does not have any inclination to use a computer. We arranged to meet a fortnight ago when I was going out to continue my (never-ending) rebuild of 'Blaven'.

We spent many hours exchanging experiences and ideas - and consuming prodigious amounts of Keo. Comparing the two boats was particularly interesting as mine is a year older than theirs and many minor changes I have been making had been as original in the later version.

Geoff

When looking at 'Lucy of Lune' the striking modification was the fitting of full sized Lewmar hatches on each of the four bow lockers.

Geoff

Wow , Presume these are the Low profile type with Acrylic windows . I can understand why but seems a bit over the top with see through covers . Presume additional crew dont berth in Port and starboard ones ? Or do they ?

hi again where about is your catfisher wintering, i just got mine , and i am planing to rebuild it, so i might need some advice. are you based in Greece?

YEs , in Aegina but planning to move on . Where are you based ?

I live in Athens, the Catfisher now is near the Corinth canal ready to be taken out of the water and start the rebuild.

Was yor catfisher recently in Vliho Bay tied up near Vliho yacht club . What sort of work are you planning ? Which harbour / yard are you in . Is yoursa sloop ora ketch ?

no, i am planing to remake the interior and paint it all, and maybe add a platform and some electronics. I am going to take it to sousaki yard, just before the Corinth canal, saronic side.
its a ketch.

Good Luck with the modifications . If you need any info just ask.

Mine is a ketch too currently in Kanonis yard . Aegina. Plan to be in the water end of April

Hello Catmandoo,
I am an owner of Catfisher catamaran 28 please could you give me a helping hand I am looking for new rubber seals for my sliding small windows.
Best greetings Isba

Hi,

We have the same job on our Catfisher and we will using Seals Direct who appear to have everything we need, both for the window rubbers, the rubber seals for the window retaining screws and the fabric strips that the windows slide in.
Their contact details are:
•By e-mail: sales@sealsplusdirect.co.uk•By telephone: 0845 226 3345 (local rate) or 01425 617722. International +44 845 226 3345 or +44 1425 617722
•By fax: 0845 226 3343 or 01425 610967. International +44 845 226 3343 or +44 1425 610967
•By post: Seals + Direct Ltd, 32 Marley Avenue, New Milton, Hants, BH25 5LJ. UK.
www.sealsdirect.co.uk

They are sell the various little gizmos that make fitting this sort of trim much easier.

Good luck

Lloyd - Catfisher: Succession.

Many thanks for this advice but sealsplusdirect has only one similare typ and I am not sure if it is working because my Catfisher is on the island of Korfu in a boatyard near Gouvia Marina and I am in Austria now. If you order the original one please send me all the order numbers for the small sliding window rubber seals.

Hi,

I hope we will have more info for you in a couple of weeks.

Succession

I am about to perform a trick of the light in my F34 master cabin by putting in a pair of sliding portholes in the wooden wheelhouse seat bulkhead, (just under the chart drawer), to let a huge amount of light into the master cabin from the wheelhouse.
I have seen this done and the results are stunning. Can anyone tell me where I can buy the identical long portholes of the flattened O shape that are currently fitted in the saloon as standard...or will I have to have them made? Does anyone have experience of doing this job? It seems very straight forward to me but I am sure there is something I have not thought of... as usual !
Thanks Andy

Andy: You could visit this link for an elongated porthole that includes ventilation as well, even though you did not specifically say that was a requirement.
I have no experience of the company, but it looks interesting.
Good luck with the project.
http://www.taylormarine.com/portlights/rvsystem.html

Hi,
I am about to fit a bow thruster to my Fisher 30. The boat yard I am using is competent but have never fitted a thruster to a Fisher 30. Any advice, particularly on location of tunnel much appreciated.

Regards,
Michael

Sorry can't advise on fitting but suggest fit the biggest that you can get in.
Regards Fergie

Thanks. Good advice. I intend to fit as big as I can as far forward as I can. I reckon space inside and tunnel diameter will be limiting constraints so I am hoping to hear from someone who has laready fitted a bow thruster to a Fisher 30

Michael

I have just fittet a bow thruster on a fisher 30, got room for a 4 hp thruster. can send photoes showing location.

Hi,

Would really appreciate photos and any advice you may have

Michael

Michael,

I don't appear to have you on our FOA Membership list - are you interested in joining?

Regards

Joan Clements
FOA Secretary

Joan,

I have just joined as an associate international member. Is there anything else I should do ?
Michael

I'm trying to get a clearer picture of the advantages or disadvantages of a Fisher 37 over a 34 (or visa versa) in terms of space, sailing performance, etc.

I will be living aboard, and usually singlehanding, FWIW.

The layouts (albeit having varied a bit over the years) are pretty close, and it's not completely clear from looking at 100s of photos exactly where all of the space differences are, and whether they are really meaningful or useful.

I'm also interested in experienced opinions about sailing performance. I've read several places that the 34 is the best sailer of the family (apparently due to "a more pronounced bow", whatever that means) but am wondering if that is true in practice.

For those in the know, would you stretch your budget to go for the 37 or would you opt for the 34?

As you would expect I would vote for the 37. I personally think the layout on my 1978 boat with the heads opp. the galley, either side of the companionway with settees either side of the saloon is the best sea going configuration.
I have no problems sailing the boat on my own when I want to and I like the wheelhouse layout on my boat with a berth under the chart table on the port side with a settee on the staboard side. Mainly because is gives a bunk for my dog and items like liferaft, cockpit cushions etc.
As for sailing performance I have made trips of 130 miles averaging over 6 knots under sail and if I wish I can average over 7 knot under power when the wind is on the bow. Which is where you find it very often.
Regards,
Terry
Cigano F37

Thanks for the input, Terry.

Do you think there would be enough "raw volume" in the forward berth to construct 4 bunks, 2 on each side, if the entire area was "gutted"?

From just photos of various 37s, it's hard to tell if there would be enough vertical space, with the way the headroom only extends to about 3/4ths the length of the existing vberths. Presumably, the lower bunks would be fairly close to the floor, but then there is the question of sufficient width, etc.

Not having been able yet to crawl about a Fisher with a tape measure, I'd love to hear your opinion (or anyone elses).

I have my doubts, there isn't enough room to put more bunks above the existing one and if you lower everything you will lose your floorspace and still be short of footroom in the lower berths.
What you would do is reduce a roomy master cabin to a claustrophobic locker. If it really is necessary to have that many people onboard on occasions then the berths could be lowered a fraction and put fold away cot berths above. Personally if I was crew I would rather sleep on the saloon floor than in a sardine tin.
How many crew do you invisage? The standard layout on a 1977 boat has two in the focsle, three in the saloon, the wheehouse berth would cope with two slim ones and a child would sleep full length on the wheehouse settee.
Personally I find three people plenty at one time. I take the focsle and they get the saloon.
Regards,
Terry

There'll only be myself most of the time, but I need to have room for three kids "every other weekend and several weeks during the summer"...

Another option I've considered is a 37 with the galley aft, opposite the head, and the split salon that takes up the full width of the boat, and converting the starboard side into a third cabin with a single berth and lots of storage underneath, accessible from the passage way.

I've seen some 37s with a sea berth in that location, so I presume there's enough room to do that (may have to modify the dining table a bit to not extend past the compression post, to ensure the passageway is clear its full length).

Here's a mock up of the idea:

http://media.share.ovi.com/m1/original/0623/ec9861c2fe794767b166a37b1b878616.jpg

Does that sound more reasonable?

You are visualising a different layout from mine! I don't have a quarter cabin thank goodness. I don't understand people wanting to crawl into their bunks feet first then crawl out on their hands and heads. In a heavy sea who wants to sleep with their head to the bows? I have a master cabin in the bow with two berths, two wardrobes, sink and plenty of room. The saloon has settees down each side, one can be made into a double. To box off one side of the saloon would take away the light and the space.
The heads is aft to starboard of the companionway and the galley on the port side athwartships, much easier to work in underway than a linear galley.
The berth at floorlevel in the wheelhouse under the chart table is big enough for a slim couple or two large Labradors plus lots of kit.
Regards,
Terry

It's certainly true that everything is a compromise. I'd rather not have to constantly make the settees into beds each night and clear them away each morning. Not to mention being able to let the kids have more of a personal space of their own.

In my case, the new single berth cabin would be ideal for my daughter, and the vberth for my two sons.

I expect I could also put some frosted/textured windows along the top 30cm or so of the new cabin wall, to allow light from the starboard ports to get to the salon without compromising the privacy of the cabin.

I expect that with this kind of configuration, the pilothouse takes on more importance for general living when moored, and I'd probably optimize/restructure the pilothouse area to be used as the primary eating area, etc.

Patrick,
Sounds like you know what you want, and I think you'll need the extra space to get it. Go for the 37 if you are at all in doubt of the 34. When you are out at sea, a 37 foot boat can feel pretty small. hehe. your ideas sounds good, if you don't mind the carpentry and you've got the skill. I think it would add to your boat not take away. And your wheelhouse will become more importnat for general living. At the end of the day you have to get what you need out of your boat, and if your family is not happy, you'll be down there on your own! I think we can all atest to that at one point or another. Make the changes, keep the family happy. Your wee girl will appreciate the privacy, its a good move I think.

Seems this approach to adding a 3rd cabin could even work with a 34 with the same general layout.

E.g. http://media.share.ovi.com/m1/original/0623/ef352be056174df798b214c5abe1e20a.jpg

You have to sacrifice a hanging locker, but would gain alot of storage space under the 3rd berth, accessed from the salon.

Not an answer to your question, but ketch or sloop is obviously a factor to take into consideration too. I have been told that sloop sails better (I cannot judge myself) but the sails are bigger and therefore a bit more difficult to handle. On the positive side, there are less ropes to worry about. Head room in the wheelhouse is important too when tall. Head room can vary from boat to boat.

Regards,
Herman. F34.

Is the settee length in the pilothouse of a 34 long enough to sleep on? (I'm 5'11")

The 37 seems more than long enough, judging by the layout diagrams, but it's hard to tell clearly about the 34.

I do not have the exact measurement at the moment, but I am pretty sure that the settee in the pilothouse would be too small for you. I would rather sleep on the floor and not risk falling off the settee. I refer to my pilothouse as "the skybar". Personally I don't think that turning a settee into a bed in the salloon is an issue. It that not just a matter of crawing into a sleeping bag? Unlike most other sailing boats, you have the pilothouse where you can plan your journey in peace without having to craw over a sleeping crew in the salloon. Have a look at a few Fishers which are on the market. I looked around for about one year before I bought mine.

Has anyone here themselves, or know of anyone else who has circumnavigated on a Fisher, or made an ocean crossing?

No question that the boats are up to it, just looking for any accounts of first hand experiences.

Thanks.

There's a book Dream Cruise by Brainerd Chapman that tells of their cruise from Norway to Florida in 1977-78 on their ketch rigged Fisher 37 Gabbiano.
Gabbiano is now in Bellingham, WA, at least was a yr or so back.

Ken G. Brown

Thanks! Already found and ordered a used copy. Excellent.

Welcome.
And by the by, any of you pack-rats out there have back issues of Cruising World from 1990?

I was on a nice Fisher 37 recently in Bellingham, WA and noticed a small plaque saying something like the following:

David & Linda Cubberly
'Pelican'
Cruising World 02-23-90

I can only assume that the plaque meant they had an article published in Cruising World around that date about their adventures on the Fisher 37, previously named Pelican.

Does anyone have the article? I would like to obtain a copy of it. I contacted Cruising World but their digital archives do not go back that far and they did not have resources to do more than a very quick look to find it. So far I haven't been able to locate it in the local libraries either. If I had the exact title and page numbers I could possibly get a copy via interlibrary loan.

Any further info would be of interest.
Thx,
Ken G. Brown

Griffon F46 did the Round the World Rally a few years back

Hi there! This is my first contact with the site and as of today have read with interest some of the comments by Fisher owners.
There were 21 Fisher 32 's built in Australia between about 1982 and 1990, layout and general hull configuration is not disimiliar to the 34.

One of these vessels, probably about hull no 3, was single handed from Australia , through the Suez across the Atlantic and Panama and had some trouble on the way to the Galapagos.

Th e trip was documented in an article in the Australian Cruising Helmsman magazine December 2000.

The owner / skipper , a man in his 60's named Ron Amos found that about 300 nm out of Panama his rudder was jammed by a broken propeller shaft which had moved aft out of the stern tube after the engine had come off its mounts during the night.
I wont go into too much detail but if anyone is interested will try and copy the article and post it in full.

To make a long story short. After diving!!! he got the boat in a position to beat 600nm over a 12 day period to sail into Santa Cruz Island in Galapagos. Thereafter the boat was freighted to Ecuador.

Unfortunately the article doesnt give much detail on the trip and relates mainly to the engine problems.

About a year ago the same boat, albeit a different owner by then, was for sale in Ecuador via an American broker. Pictures on the web show a refurbished vessel , new motor and looking reasonable.

I have tried to make contact with Ron Amos over the past few years without success as he would be an interesting person to talk with re his Fisher 32 exploits.

My cruising has been limited to east coast Australia and Tasmania,and at no time has the boat "Seventh Heaven" given cause for concern.

I look forward to corresponding with other Fisher owners from time to time.

Hi
Thanks for the info about the Fisher 32 as I been working on a Fisher survey for 18 months now and any info on these boats, articles would be helpful.
The Fisher 32 is very much the same as the UK built Fisher 31 of which 35 were built.
Please send all info to Geoff Brown at.

fishersurvey@cwgsy.net

Thanks

You may find this surfing video of a Barlow 32 interesting:
<http://www.fisherclub.com/De%20Vloot/Barlow/Vreemde%20eend.html>

More Fisher info on the rest of the site:
<http://www.fisherclub.com/Welkom/index.htm>

Sounds a really interesting story I would love to read the whole article, so if you can post or email it that would be great. I have a 1986 F32, hull # 8 berthed on Westernport bay Vic.... Geoff Adshead

Hi Geoff
I will put a copy of the Cruising He;msman article to u in the mail today.
My F32, Seventh Heaven is here in Sydney [Port Hacking], # 18 and launched late 1988.

John Worchurst

Thanks John I will let you know when it arrives. Sounds like he had an interesting voyage. Ive only had 'Patience' a short time and have been busy putting her back together after her overland trip from Perth. I'm not very experienced so it will be good to read (probably in the cabin with a glass of wine) what can be done.. Geoff

I received the article today John, thanks. What an incredible trip he made. A four year world cruise in a Fisher 32 and alone ! I'm no expert but I would imagine not too many F32s have completed such a voyage. I have read dream cruise by Brainerd Chapman ,a good read but what a book Ron Amos could have written. I'm not sure if you checked the Australian Register of ships, his boat 'Tusitala of Noosa' is there and shows it built in 84 and registered in Mooloolaba. Maybe someone at Mooloolaba yacht club knows him ? ....re Geoff

hi Geoff
Have been considering fitting a variable pitch prop to the 32 , an Autoprop. Perhaps other members have experience in this area?
Engine is a Yamaha 3 cylinder diesel , 45hp @ 3200 rpm with a 2.95:1 gearbox ratio. Present prop is a 20dia x 18" pitch. Great but a bit of a drag under sail!!!
Autoprop, while expensive , promises amazing advantages. Would be interested in feedback from anyone who has experience with our Fisher hull shapes.

Regards John W

Not an answer to your question, but I would like to mention that the May 2009 edition of -Yachting Monthly- contains a propeller test; might be of interest.

Thanks Herman I will check that article out!
The marketing blurb by autoprop is so optimistic ,I would like very much to get some feedback from a hands on Fisher owner with an unbiased opinion. Especially so considering the cost of the Autoprop!
Best wishes John W

My Fisher 34 with a Volvo Penta MD22-A engine has the Brunton Autoprop H6. I am happy with it (little prop walk, good in reverse) but I can unfortunately not comment on how it compares with a fixed prop on the same boat because I bought the boat with the Autoprop. As you will read in that article, the Autoprop is not the only one and not necessarly the best either.

Hi John not replied sooner been away, I have no experience in variable pitch props but will ask around. Keep in touch with how you get on with your search ....Geoff

34v37.
I own a Fisher 37 built in 1977. Being an early one she has more room in the wheelhouse due to a smaller galley below. I prefer this because in a seaway you can wedge yourself in the galley. We have a quarter cabin opposite the galley which unlike Terry, my wife and I like because it is near the centre of motion and gives all more privacy when you have guests on board. Slightly unusually, my helm is on the starboard side and on the prtside is a benchseat about 6ft2ins long. I have a lee cloth on it and use it when my wife and I are on longer passages on our own. It is a little narrow but with the lee cloth its no problem. At anchor we often socialise with others in the wheelhouse as you have the best view in town and take our meals up there. When it comes to sailing you have to accept she is a heavy motorsailer. She has never missed tacks but I do keep the bottom clean. Also for going to windward you have a "stuffing big diesel" under you feet which is the best iron topsail there is and will drive her into virtually any head sea you are lokely to be out in. If it helps let me have your email address and I'll send you some pictures. If you can find the extra pennies, go for the 37. Bernie.

Thanks for the info Bernie. I am more and more leaning in the direction of a 37. That will probably mean a little more refitting and updating work for me, but I'm pretty handy and will have lots of time to get her up to snuff, whatever boat I end up with.

My email is ps02210 -at- gmail -dot- com. I'd love to see some photos.

It will be nearer the end of the year before I am able to seriously shop, but I'm trying to make good use of my time by evaluating, re-evaluating, re-re-re-evaluating my options ;-)

I'm also hoping to find some time and opportunities this coming season to sail on a few Fishers (and some others I'm considering), as a picture can only tell you so much.

Cheers, Patrick.

Hi all, My wife Dee and myself Ron have just joined the Fishers Group. We are currently looking for a Fisher 25, we have seen a few on line and have talked to some nice owners! There is one that is for sale in Finnisterre France (sounds like from reading the blogs that it could possibly be owned by Francis Rutter) The broker Royal Nautisme won't respond (possibly because I'm Canadian and don't speak french very well) It has a bow thruster which is the only connection and Francis was knowledgable on the canal systems. Our plan once we find the right boat is to eventually make it to Europe and spend a few years doing the canals, the Med and possibly into Russia. I would appreciate any comments on the suitability of this boat. We have had numerous boats over the years and are favorite was a 42' motorsailer (3 kids then) Enjoyed the warmth as the British Columbia coast can get cold and wet in the winter. We did manage a trip to Hawaii on our Baba 35 one year. Is there any inherent defects or problems that are common with the 1975 t0 1985 Fisher 25s? So if anyone knows of a good example we would sure appreciate it. We plan to be in the UK in April and once we find our dream boat look forward to joining the group for some cruises.

No, the Fisher 25 for sale in Finisterre is not mine. Dorvic is in the water in Lowestoft and is not for sale [unless you made me an offer that I couldn't refuse!].
A Fisher 25 would be a good choice for the inland type of cruise that you suggest, but you need to think out a way of lowering the masts. An A frame would be fine for the main, but what about the mizzen? I havn't solved that one yet apart from getting the yard to lift them out. A bow thruster is defnitely a help.
Francis Rutter.

Ron - If you're flying in through Scotland (Glasgow) you are welcome to have a look at my F25 and I can point out what you should be looking for. My initial thoughts, however, are that you will need one with a recent engine for all that canal work. A replacement engine is probably going to set you back GBP 6,000. I looked at quite a few before buying Aline and I would say that approx. 40% had been re-engined, so they are not too hard to find. You will pay more, but nothing like the cost of a new engine. There have been a couple of articles in the sailing mags where Fishers have been through the French canals although not in a F25. However, on the FOA site, search back on articles, especially the one about the two guys who took their F25 from Oslo down to Amsterdam - great stuff! PM me if you want anything else. Alan

Help required. I refurbished the teakwork on my F25 last summer by sanding down and multiple coats of varnish ( epifanes clear ). The end result looked great, but over the winter the varnish has lifted quite a bit on the gunwhales ( door, grab rails etc are OK, just minor touching up needed ). I am in two minds as to whether to strip back and revarnish ( I had hoped that the previous work would have lasted a bit longer, even on the flat surfaces of the gunwhales ) or go for an alternative approach - deks olje or teak wonder

What would others recommend, and have you experience of either of these products ?

Thanks

Raymond

Give up on varnish. Strip it back again and use Cetol natural.
Cetol is the promised land! Your woodwork will look great, and if you put another couple of coats on every other year it will continue to look great.
Yes varnish done by a profesional and maintained by one might look better but I wouldn't go back to varnish if they gave me the stuff free.
If I can find a decent photo of Cigano's woodwork I will put it on the website.
Regards,
Terry

Terry

Thanks for the advice - this sounds like what I'm after and I look forward to seeing a picture if you can get one. I love the varnish look and we spent a fair bit of money last Spring getting all the woodwork professionally done. When it was finished the boat looked great ; in fact it still does apart from the flat horizontal surfaces of the bulwarks, where the varnish seal has broken around cleats etc and water has got it in. I think all the frost this winter probably played a part as well. I would like to persevere with varnish on the rest of the woodwork, where it has held up well eg cabin door etc. Do you think you would see a marked difference between the cetol finish and the varnish finish ?

Thanks again

Raymond

Dear Raymond,

I used varnish on Dorvic. The whole toe rail had to be replaced with new teak. Where any skin fitting went through [cleats, shroud fittings etc.] the shipwright slightly countersunk the teak so that the mastic made a collar around the bolt, which does help I think. I put about 8 coats of varnish on and it looked great, but, as you say, bits do lift each year. I have now taken to touching it up and then putting one full coat of varnish on, each Spring and I add Owatrol to the varnish. This seems to make it easier to apply and [says he - hopefully] makes it a bit more durable.
Regards, Francis

Hi , I have used ceto on my Baba 35 which had alot of teak on the bulworks and gunwhales. The cockpit was all teak and the cetol stood up really well on the seats and cockpit floor boards. It doesn't look as good as varnish but a way less work. I scraped off all of the old varnish and you have to take it back to raw wood. Any weathered wood will turn black when coated with cetol. I put on 3 coats and then in the summer we would do a fresh water rinse a light sand and put on 1 coat for the winter. The stuff doesn't peel and flake like varnish and you can easily touch up any scrapes. We kept some in a empty nail polish which comes with a little brush and a little piece of sandpaper in a ziplock. The medium cetol does have a organish tinge to it. We kept and sailed her on the west coast of British Columbia which has similar climatic conditions as the UK.-Ron

Hello!
This is a great topic for conversation. I am using Deks oijle for my decks and doors. My deck is mahogany and the doors are teak. The Deks oijle is great on the mahogany but does not penetrate the teak very well. That has to be the great thing about teak. Its so dense. But a teak specific product, would probably be better for teak. The Deks Oijle is very easy to apply, a rag and a bit of time does the trick. It has been great this past year. With a touch up every few months to keep things sweet. The doors seem to fade quicker, but what can you do? I have been thinking about an alternative to Deks Oijle, so your posts have been very helpful. Getting things in swing for the run up to the season! Keep at it guys!

To all

Thanks for the advice and comments, and its good to know that there is more than one way of skinning this particular cat ! Another option I have discovered since the weekend is teak-specific epifanes, which is claimed to be a 'varnish-alternative' specifically suited to teak

I hope to try a couple of different methods on different areas ( the chap who works on my boat also maintains a number of other boats with wooden fittings, so we are going to do a bit of a comparative trial )

I'll try to remeber to post the outcome on the website

Thanks again to all who kindly responded

Raymond

Hi - I have recently purchased the Catfisher 28 called Squirrel. I have 2 questions for the moment.
1) There is a carving note inside the front of the Starboard hull. Can anyone tell me where I can find the history/origin of the boat with this number?
2) The CQR anchors with this boat have damaged the stems on each hull quite extensively, has anyone either built a bow extension to hold the anchor away from the bow, or put some kind of protection on the stem.
I would be most grateful for any information on either of these points.
Thanks - Jim White

Cant help with the numbering but I replaced both bow rollers with fabricated SS rollers with a longer reach . Have used a Bruce and a Rocna in both . While there is a CQR on deck the business end sits in a triangular frame protruding from the deck between the two bows - has to be lifted out to hang from the roller if I want to use it however prefer the Rocna with an electric windlass on the SB hull which after anchoring I bring the rode to the middle with a rope yoke attached to both hulls taking the load off the windlass . Rocna is great - holds well and will bite into weed at all angles and the sharp point does not even bite into the hull when stowed . Dont use the Bruce any more - doesnt bite into weed and slips after time in thixotropic mud

Many thanks Catmandoo. I like your advice about storing the CQR. Is there any way you could send me a sketch of your frame and yoke. Checked up on the Rocnas and will put on my future purchases list, unfortunately at the moment it is down the priority list so the CQR will have to do for the moment.

Have owned FISHER 25 for two seasons now, and I am very happy with the boat. However when sailing using the tiller the effort needed to steer is very high, a lot of energy is needed to turn the wheel in the wheel house. My question is, can a quick release be fitted and were could I get one ?

You should already have a quick release mechanism fitted. It is a spring loaded metal sleve on the end of the connecting rod where it joins at the rudder. Simply pull back the sleve and lift off the connecting rod to allow free movement of the tiller. Others may explain it a little better.

Thanks for the reply, unfortunately there is no quick release on my boat, have spoken to NORTHSHORE and awaiting reply as to were I could source the part. Could anyone point me in the right direction?

Re: Fisher 37. To gain access to my stern gland bearing I have to cut an access hatch in the cockpit floor just behind the Missen Mast base step. Can anyone advise if there is any structural beams or supports in that area.
Many thanks
Fergie

Hi Fergie. If I were to cut a hole where you suggest in my Fisher 37, I would be right over the fuel tank. I can reach the inboard bearing from under the floor of the wheelhouse without too much difficulty, and a few years ago I renewed the outboard cutlass bearing which is bolted to the sternpost. I reached the inboard nuts by putting a plank on top of the saft and crawled down as far as I could. Then with two two foot extensions to my sockect set I could just reach them at arms length. I did ask the missus that if I were in there more than 30mins, I was probably stuck and to come and haul me out! I hope this is of help. Bernie.

Hi Bernie, My sterngland is situated 270mm back from the Missen and 550mm from the wheelhouse and 950mm below the cockpit floor which renders it totally impossible to access from the engine room cos my diesel tank completely block any route in. Hence my enquiry re: cutting an access hatch on the cockpit floor. My question is there any reinforcing under the cockpit floor. As a mater of interest I have a friend who own a 1985 F37 by Northshore his Sterngland is in the engine room on a long stern tube.So it looks like when the various companies built these boats (mine was Fairways built) the engineering differed somewhat. Fergie

There are many differences. on my 1977 built Fairways 37 there is not a fuel tank under the cockpit. My version has two tanks, one tank fitted either side of the engine space ie beneath the lockers under the settee on the Starboard side and below the wheelhouse pilot berth on the Port side.
You can lie across the boat in the space aft of the engine and gain access to stern gland, Cutlass bearing bolts.
Terry

Hello all - having finally (after a great many years dreaming about it) become a Fisher owner (F30 - Kerry Fisher), the whole experience is being somewhat tainted by lots of leaking ports and windows - the ports being the V Berth (opening) ports. I'm desperately trying to source replacements but am hitting a brick wall every time - anyone got any suggestions out there? Every time it rains, or every time i wash here down, i have to strip back the seat cushions and remove the pilot books/tidal streams away from the vicinity of the leaking windows, lest i end up with a pile of mush. As i say, it's kinda ruining the whole experience! The upholstery has been suffering from this too, and i'm looking to also replace that hand-in-hand with the windows and ports.
Any help or guidance whatsoever whould be very much appreciated.

Many thanks,

Alick

If you want to get the existing windows refurbished I would suggest you try
Eagle Boat Windows tel: 01756 792097 - good luck and welcome to the world of
Fishers!

Peter Clements
FOA Commodore

Thank you Peter - i see there are now a couple of recommendations now for Eagle - seems like the way to go! Thanks also for the welcome, i'm thoroughly looking forward to getting plenty nautical miles under my belt on Kerry Fisher!

Best regards

Alick

Hi ALMac.
I had a similar problem with a Coaster 33 and I removed the windows and took them to Eagle Windows of Skipton who refurbished them and let me have them back complete with the approprate mastic for putting them back. These were windows that leaked around the rubber seals.
My present Fisher 25 also leaked around the windows but this time it was the mastic between the window and the GRP of the hull that was at fault. These simply had to be removed and refixed with new mastic. Both were not cheap, but neccessary and effective.
Good luck.

Thank you very much Francis for the recommendation. I'll be dropping them a line post haste.

Thanks for your time and attention,

Best regards

Alick

Cabin upgrades!
Hello folks. Further to the replies regarding my window problems, i have another query which i'd really appreciate some help on. As mentioned in my earlier post, hand in hand with the window replacement/repairs, i'm going to be looking at re-lining/up-holstering the cabin(s) as i go along. Has anyone any particular thoughts upon what to use for a practical yet durable material?

Best regards

Alick

A lot of people like wood, battens are easy to work with.
If you use a lining material don't stick to hull but put it on boards that are set against the hull. No sagging problems then.
Any lining with a foam backing will perish with time and the sagging begins.
My F30 had all sorts of lining problems from 12 years of age, maybe earlier before I bought her. My F37 has all the linings set on boards and thirty years on no drooping.
Terry

Ah, now there's an idea!. It would seem mine is the same as you've experienced - the lining currently sags badly in varying degrees throughout. I like the wood/battens idea - i think that would be tasteful - done in the right manner. And as you say, easy to work with. Any thoughts on the likes of Vee lining on the wooden aspect? Thinking off the top of my head, i guess that would be a nice compromise - as opposed to trying to cut larger sections to an exact fit. Food for thought!

Thanks Terry

Again in the fo'c'sle strip battens. A friend of mine had a couple of Saga yachts built by Skentleberrys and on each of them he had battens. You have a choice, either butt the battens up to one another to give a solid surface or leave gaps between for air circulation which is the traditional way. The space between batten and hull makes life in you bunk warmer because you don't end up lying against the hull. I never have been very good at DIY but the shops must be full of suitable veneer strips for doing the job. I presume you start by glassing in some vertical wood strips to the hull then screw the battens to them. Which would give simple access in the future for running cables etc.
Regards,
Terry

Hi Terry,
Thats an excellent idea - spacing the battens out. As you say, it does get a tad cold when you find yourself lying up against the hull in the morning! A small gap makes the world of difference, that's for sure. Certainly, i have a plan forming with all these suggestions. I'll be feeling obliged to post pictures of the finished article!

Cheers once again
Alick

Foam backed vinyl always sags in the end, as Terry says. An alternative is carpet material, made for the purpose. It is glued straight onto the side of the boat. Perhaps easier to do than battens, but also slightly less insulating.

Regards, Francis

Hi Francis,
Thanks so much for the reply and advice. Actually, the carpet material idea sounds like a great solution to the fwd cabin - obviously the curvature of the exterior bulkheads would make a wooden solution quite fiddly - perhaps wouldn't do justice to the rest of the boat. I'll try an internet search to see if there are suitable materials out there - shouldn't be too difficult! Clearly, the foam backed vinyl has to go!!

Thanks again!
Alick

Hi,
A bit late into this thread but for what it is worth I used carpet tiles to do the wheelhouse on my boat. They are much easier to template, handle and glue than conventional carpet. Depending on the style, you can't see the join. Also I have found they are much warmer and less cold to the touch than vinyl especially beginning and end of season.

Keith - Hypnotic

Alick, Iam having a complete interior refurb on my F37 using a vinyl material on all detachable headlinings and a insulated vinyl on walls and hull sides cost of material 15€ 1mtr. x 1.4mtr.. Im having this work done in Portugal, so if your interested I can get the name of the material we are using also I took the opportunity to insulate behind all panels including replacing wiring plus not refitting poppers but instead using varnished teak strakes. I can send some photos of the job up to now which is not yet complete. My boat will be in the coming home to Scotland mid June and I will will have samples of the material then including photos of the complete job. Best regards, Fergie

Hi Fergie,

Definately interested - it's such a shame - the existing vinyl, although lovely when new i'm sure - has really clouded my view on the material. I'd certainly be interested to see how your refurb looks, the name of your material would be much appreciated. The way the job is panning out (and not wanting to spend a lovely summer's sailing doing lots of work on the boat), i'll be splitting the boat into three (aye, not literally!) and tackling the smaller chunks on a need-to-do basis. After all, wouldn't want to be bored in the winter. If you're up my way, it'd be great to see you and your fine vessel. i'm moorined on the swing at Loch Melfort Yacht Haven.

Cheers

Alick

Hi Alick, will let you know when my boat arrives to my home port Tayvallich not so far from where you are based, you will be welcome to come and have a look at my refurb. I will find out for you the name of the materials used.Regards, Fergie PS we have 3 fully serviced visitor moorings here in Tayvallich.

Hi Fergie
Any chance you could include me in yr demo. I have a catfisher 28 and am also planning a complete refurb. probably over next winter. My home port is Kirkcudbright, Dumfries and Galloway, so could get up to Tayvallich for a wee keek.
Jim

hi Fergie, please can you also send me some photos? i m also rebuilding a catfisher28.
thanks

i am rebuilding a catfisher28, is the small mast usefull or its ok if i remove it? any ideas?

Depends what you want to do . I use mine for the radar antenna . and the boom as a derrick when lifting my out board . The mizzen sail comes quite useful at anchor to keep the boat pointing into the wind . As the catfisher is a motor sailer and the sails are only there to save on fuel costs then any extra bit of canvass is a bonus - that is if you are intending to cruise long distances . There is a version with only one mast but I understand it has a bigger boom and mainsail . Is the cost worth the gain though ??

Liossis ,

Got to Vliho bay near Nidri and you will find a catfiher there with only one mast . Talk to Horatio Todd who is currently trying to sell it as its owner did a runner after not paying a large bill to see if you can get any tips about the rigging etc his phone no is 26450 95184 mobile 6934 196423 email orkidetodd@hotmail.com.
His office is next to the Vliho Bay yacht club

Liossis,
Hi - in my short experience with a catfisher 28, I have found the mizzen very useful for assisting 'going about'. If you tighten up the mizzen on the weather side before you tack, this procedure seems to eliminate the need for backing the jib. There is nothing more frustrating than finding that she won't go about as you try to tack near a weather shore, the mizzen seems to solve the problem.

THANKS A LOT

Hi,
Adding quality audio to an electronic project is surprisingly difficult. People tend to end up either using low-quality ISD chips (you might get 8Khz sampling rate for 30seconds out of these, if you’re lucky!) or mucking around with trying to control a CD or MP3 player. Although it’s possible to generate audio direct from a micro controller using a PWM output, the quality is often low and its hard to fit a lot of music in an EEPROM chip. You can buy an embedded MP3 player board, but they’re either expensive or difficult to use!
<a href="http://www.niton.com">XRF</a>

Am thinking about changing the fixed three bladed prop on my F25 to a variable pitch prop. Has anyone any suggestions to which is best suited?
Regards Craig John

We have a Bruntons Autoprop,

See - http://www.autoprop.com/ (Model H5)

Having only recently bought the boat I can not comment on its use but from the short distance I have moved the boat (mooring to hoist dock!) it seemed to need a good crack astern for the blades to swing. I have since cleaned the prop and expect a better reaction when we undergo trials in a few weeks.

thanks for your reply, I like the look of the Autoprop, also like the look of the KIWIPROP. Can you tell me what your engine is and the HP. When you get your boat back in the water would like to here anymore comments.

We have a Yanmay 3gm - 27hp. Once she's back afloat in a week or so weather permitting I'll let you know.

How do you upload photos. I have the original story in the original wooden boat mag about the fisher 34.